There’s this little village, off the beaten path, back in Jefferson County. To reach this place, I prefer taking Rt. 51 from Inwood, toward Charles Town… the old Middleway Pike.
Now, there are a lot of places in the Shenandoah Valley where one can see buildings that predate the Civil War… lots. Yet, I don’t think I’ve found a place where one can immerse themselves so much in the early 19th century Shenandoah as Middleway (formerly known as Smithfield). In some ways, I’d even say it rivals Harpers Ferry.
In part, we can thank the old Winchester & Potomac Railroad for this. Many thought for certain that the W&P would run through Smithfield/Middleway… but, to those who had high hopes for growth in Middleway… it did not. Again, what was their loss might well be our gain… at least those who have a passion for the history (especially in the architecture) that was left behind.
It’s not that Smithfield/Middleway was abandoned because of the railroad’s chosen path, but because the town did not see the destruction of older buildings to make way for newer buildings… but I may be getting ahead of myself, just a bit.
Middleway’s European-influenced attributes date to the early 1700s. Thanks to a man named John Smith (no, not Jamestown’s John Smith), the village had its beginnings (the town was settled in 1734). What started with Smith’s grist and hemp mills, moved forward to see an active little community. By 1795, the Smith family had the town surveyed and began selling lots. In time, (and as I already mentioned, “Smithfield”, to prevent confusion with another Virginia town by the same name, had to change its name to Middleway (though the town was still known as Smithfield well into the 1800s.
At one point (exactly when, I have yet to figure out), the village, filled with “numerous shops and crafts people”, became known as the “Paris of the Valley.” The following is from the Middleway Walking Tour brochure, and might help to explain more…
In the early 1800s, the town was a prosperous regional trading center with a main street lined with shops and houses. According to Charles [Peter] Varle [also known as Peter Charles Varle], in 1810 the town had two churches as well as ‘three well assorted stores, an apothecary shop, one distillery, four shoemakers, five weavers, one waggon maker, one saddle-tree maker, one hatter, three blacksmiths, three tailors, and one tanner; and that there was an attorney-at-law and a physician.
Frankly, I find it hard to believe that Middleway rivaled other towns in the area. Certainly, Charles Town must have had even more… especially in that it was Charles Town and not Middleway that became the county seat. On the other hand, I believe that Henry Howe’s Historical Collections of Virginia (1845) may have downplayed (significantly?) the town, but saying little more than the following…
Middleway, 7 miles southwest of Charlestown, contains 1 Presbyterian, and 1 Methodist church, 3 mercantile stores, and about 500 inhabitants.
Whatever the story behind its title as the “Paris of the Valley”, the questionable nature of the name should not deter a visit.
No matter how you come to Middleway, Leetown Road (which turns into Queen Street in the town) is the main thoroughfare.
What greets you at the heart of their historic district might raise different feelings.
The sign over the visitor center in the village.
Right off the bat, you may notice old buildings that need care…
A hospital following the Battle of Antietam, this building was used as a general merchandise store during much of the 19th century by the J.W. Grantham family.
But if that’s all you see… give it another look. There’s a lot to see in the village, and at times I got a Williamsburg-esque type of feeling.
One of those “Williamsburg-esque” type of scenes that caught my eye.
Yet, it’s not as “historically sanitized” as Williamsburg… and I think that’s a good thing… but, the overall feel of the village places one in an environment that should immerse you in another time. The only negative thing I have to say is that the speed limit is too high going through town. One shouldn’t feel a gust from a semi-truck barreling through town when walking. Also, I wish there was some sort of a sidewalk (perhaps like the cobblestone-like sidewalk just outside the tavern that dates to 1750) along Queen Street, to allow better (and safer) access. After all… the sign on Rt. 51 clearly touts the village as a historic district… as such, the village should tweak the main street in order to make good on that claim. Again… it’s not that I’d like to see it “sanitized”. Quite to the contrary… the town should retain its character. Just make the main thoroughfare safer and more easily to walk along.
Here are some images that I was able to take, during my visit… just about two weeks ago.
Dr. Samuel Scollay’s Scollay Hall was built in three stages during the 18th and 19th centuries… the oldest predating the Revolutionary War.
A close-up of the upper portion of the second Masonic Hall in Middleway. Built in 1852, this was home to the Triluminar Lodge No. 117. This also housed the Jefferson Academy in the early 1900s.
The bell tower in the Old Union Church, which dates to the 1820s.
Without a doubt, my favorite building in the town… the old Virginia Inn (Sam Stone’s Tavern) . The earliest portion of the house dates to ca. 1750. The front portion of the house (seen here) was the inn. The tavern was on the side of this “L” shaped structure.
A brick and log house believed to have been built ca. 1790, which once housed the village shoemaker.
Inside Sam Stone’s Tavern. I was very fortunate in that the owner of the house allowed me access (thank you, so much!) in order to see two of the fireplaces on the main floor. Though the floor used to be a dirt floor, the wide-planked timbers seen here may (I believe) date to the 1830s. I know the current owner must have thought I was rather odd for asking… but I received her permission to lay on the floor to take this photo. I just thought it a shame not to give attention to the floor when snapping a shot of the tavern fireplace.
A log home not yet identified on the Middleway map.
A quick snapshot of the well-used map I used touring the Middleway Historic District.
Another part of the kick I’m on, to better understand the culture of the antebellum Shenandoah. This was time well-spent, spending a good three hours at Middleway…
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Janet
September 29, 2013
That is real interesting. I have a modern connection to that area.
In “Physicians in the Shenandoah Valley,” the letters of my people go back to the 1700’s and include a letter dated Oct. 18, 1812, describing the soldiers in WV during the War of 1812, written by Henry Rupert, son-in-law of Rev. Paul Henkel who kept a diary, and grandfather of Solomon Peter Rupert who was the husband of Jessie Rupert, Union sympathizer during the Battle of New Market. This was intriguing.
Then I noticed at the Library of VA an exhibit about the “The Forgotten War of 1812.” Since wars are usually documented pretty well, that provides another way to embellish the Family Histories and make connections with events before the Civil War.
Mike Musick
October 1, 2013
Thanks for spotlighting this wonderful Jefferson County community, Robert. A friend whose ancestors there go back to antebellum days always reminds me, when Middleway is mentioned, that among his folks the place was simply called “Clip,” stemming from the Legend of the Wizard Clip.
Mike Musick (Secretary, Jefferson County Historic Landmarks Commission)
Robert Moore
October 2, 2013
Thanks, Mike. It’s an amazing village.
Patricia Moser
January 25, 2014
Thanks for the info.
There is a will in the courthouse records that mentions the old Smith Tavern on the Middleway Pike. Do you know about where the tavern was located?
Robert Moore
January 26, 2014
I’m not positive, but I wonder if the Smith Tavern is the same one I have pictured in this post.
Mary Toborg
February 18, 2014
The Smith Tavern was located at 7124 Queen Street, where there now is a modern home. The Tavern was established by Henry Smith, no relation to John Smith, It was torn down around 1960 or so.
Delores Milstead
February 19, 2014
I just became aware of your post and, as the indulgent homeowner who allowed you to lie on the dining room floor, I want to thank you for sharing your experience in our village!
For the question above about the Smith Tavern, the location was on the other (south) side of Turkey Run from the center of the village. The Middleway Conservancy has a picture of the building which no longer exists.
The conservancy is now working on a commemoration of the Battle of Smithfield in August of 1864 when Custer and Early led forces in conflict for several days in the village and surrounding area. Please let me know if you want information on it.
You may be interested to look at the drawings of Smithfield in THE JAMES TAYLOR SKETCHBOOK published by the Western Reserve Historical Society. There is a wonderful sketch of Queen Street and of the back street where you photographed the Masonic Lodge and the bell tower. As you noted, little has changed.
I was particularly taken by the photo of the outside of the house and I wonder if it would be possible to obtain a copy. Although I have seen and taken may pictures, yours has the most unique perspective. It was so well done!
Robert Moore
February 19, 2014
Thanks so much, Ms. Milstead for the kind remarks (and allowing me to lay on your floor for that photo!). I would very much like to be present for the event in August, so please do send me the info.
I am aware of the James Taylor book and really need to buy a copy. They are currently out of print and quite pricey (for good reason, as the sketches are great) on the second-hand market.
I can send you the image of the outside via attachment if you like (as well as any of the other photos of your house, that you might like). It would be my pleasure.
Delores Milstead
February 20, 2014
I would be so pleased to have any and/or all images you took. Thank you!
Every year, the MIddleway Conservancy puts on a celebration of the village and its history. It is always the Saturday of the Columbus Day weekend -this year on the 11th of October. Our archives are on display and there is a celebration on the back street with music, artisans at work, Morris dancers and hay ride tours of the village. I am sure you would find it interesting.
Jerry Wm. Reid
February 20, 2014
Middleway is one of my favorite places to drive through in the autumn, it’s a very atmospheric place in October. I live in a small Frederick County, Virginia village approximately 5 miles across the Opequon Creek from Middleway and just happened to notice your photograph of the Triluminar Lodge. I thought maybe you might be interested in the history of the lodge. In some aspect the two villages histories have intertwined over the centuries. One of the connections was the Triluminar Lodge. I have researched the history of Brucetown for over 35 years and one the interesting tidbits that I uncovered is the following.
In the year 1819, John Seevers, Charles Littler, Joel Ward, Jr., and John S. Peyton of Hiram Lodge, No.21, of Winchester and Jacob Clise, William J. Miller, and Moses Hunter of Mt. Horeb, No.89, of Martinsburg, petitioned the Grand Lodge of Virginia to establish a lodge at Bruce’s Mill in Frederick County, Virginia. On December 14th the dispensation was granted. The new lodge was to be known as Tri-luminar. The name means “three lights”, one of which was the light of the moon. The dates of the regular communication were fixed as of the Saturday evening on or before the full moon of each month. In this way the members of the fraternity could be illuminated to and from their place of meeting.
On April 30, 1823 land was acquired for a meeting house “with the privilege to the grantees of the upper story of the house for a free masons lodge”. At length, there being a comparatively few members from Bruce’s Mills and many from the Middleway area, some agitation arose to the transfer of the meeting place. The lodge was moved to Middleway and held the first meeting on March 30, 1832. During the last year at Bruce’s Mills the officers of the lodge were Nathaniel Seevers, Master; Gould Johnson, Senior Warden; and William Timberlake, Warden. A revived lodge at Bruce’s Mills known as Dallas Lodge, No.132 flourished until 1900.
About 10 years ago I came across a March 19, 1822 certificate of Able Dunham for membership for the Triluminar Lodge No. 117, in the vicinity of Bruce’s Mill, Virginia among the collection of letters at the University of Houston belonging to Colonel Israel Shreve. Shreve was a Colonel of the Second Regiment of New Jersey during the Revolutionary War. Among Shreve’s collection were correspondences with General George Washington, Alexander Hamilton, General A.W. Anthony Wayne, and General Henry Lee.
megan
June 2, 2014
i cant stop thinking of this place. we went to locate an ancestor’s grave…what an exceptional town. so moving because it is untouched
Robert Moore
June 3, 2014
It is indeed a great little village.
david mellott
August 26, 2014
I grew up in middle way and I tell ya it have not chage I use to live in the big grey house with church behind it I live there for 6 years it didit have no bath in it u was a big house I mean it was cold threw the winter but it was the best time there my dad work in apple orchs we had to get water in bucket from the well and we had and out house there to my dad had a lot off big apple grats in the little field beside the house where we all played at when the church burned down when they rebuild it I remember them putting big tents in are back yard till they got it build and that church always made sure we haad a Christmas when we go out two my aunts they would fill are back porch up with present I am always thank ful to them thank u if u r the one that did it my name is david mellott I live there from 76 till 83
david mellott
August 26, 2014
i used to live in ramsey tavern I went bye there about 8 years ago had a man living there and his family I wanted to so bad to ask him if I could go see my old bed room and stuff but I was scared to death to ask something like that I wanted my little girl to see where I grew up I hope one day I can show her it used to have aa house beside it in late 70 and early 80s but it burnt down with family of 5 there the stanleys there little girl burned real bad she die from it I was best friends with her and her brother I wish I could have help her I think about that but I wanted to let everone no there was another house ty
Michelle
November 18, 2015
Hello, I live in Ramsey Tavern now. Its a beautiful old house and the previous owners put a lot of time, money, and love into it. I would like to hear more about it from you please if possible.
David mellottt
January 19, 2017
Hi yes my name is David mellott I have a brother we did live there in 1978 to 84 I live it there but mom and dad went there own way but there us to be a path in frount of house where u could walk to store and there was a old black lady lived in the little White House across from the house she would give us candy all the time may I ask how long have u lived in the house I have to ask when I was a kid I us to sleep with my light one up in the one bedroom and I saw to shadows look down at me I though it was my brother when I took my sheet of head it was gone but other then that we is to play baseball in the back yard ever summer after the house burnt down beside us there a family moved a traler there there names was the Tammy if u still live there may I bring my kid one day to show her my old. Bedroom i remember right beside the steps us to be more bedrooms are there still there I. Had the room up stairs with the door that went to the other bedroom I was always scared of that room when I was a kid we got home one day and me and my brother going to bed we heard somthing under my bed and it was birds I knocked my older brother down the steps lol me and him still talking about that I could tell u more in person and point out stuff
Michelle
November 18, 2015
I live in Ramsey tavern now. I would like to know more about it please if you could.
Jamie Bliven
October 21, 2014
Just fullfilled a life-long desire to visit Middleway, or Clip as my family has always called it. My grandmother’s father was the Rev. Andrew Willis of the Grace Episcopal Church and she supposedly grew up in the house across the street. I wondered what the economy of this little town was in the pre-Civil War era when this church, the Masons’ Lodge, and the other White church across the street were built? These are building that indicate a certain amount of community wealth at the time they were built. I was glad to see that they are still used and kept up.
True Hemp Clothing International
February 11, 2015
Did you happen to notice if the Hemp mill is still standing?
Robert Moore
February 11, 2015
I didn’t see it and it’s not mentioned in the map for the village.
Dorothy E. Morgan
April 8, 2016
My grandfather, Clarence George Morgan, lived in 1870 with Jonathan W. McGuines and his wife Roseanna Shaull McGuines on a farm near Middleway. He was also listed there in the 1880 census. Jonathan had been the Sheriff of Jefferson County. There was also a boy named Moore living there. My grandfather Clarence was born March 19, 1864, but I cannot find a birth certificate for him, and I do not know if there was a relationship to Jonathan. Do you know if there is a library in Middleway? I want to visit there this year to do some research. Your story is wonderful, and it makes me sure that I will go there to research in person. Thank you so much!
Dorothy E. Morgan
Robert Moore
April 9, 2016
Hi Dorothy,
No, there’s no library in Middleway. You’d need to go to the one in nearby Charles Town.
Dorothy E. Morgan
April 10, 2016
Thanks, Robert…I felt that the town was too small for a library .Also, years ago I visited Charles Town, and saw a sign saying that John Brown was hung two blocks from there…but it did not say which block. So that is another stop that I want to visit.
Dorothy E. Morgan
April 22, 2016
When my grandfather married, he and his wife, Carry Kremer Morgan, moved to Berryville, VA. About 10 years ago I drove through there, and stopped to admire an old house…I sat there a while, and a lady came out and said hello to me. She invited me in to see the house, and at the end of the visit, she told me that my grandfather, Clarence Morgan, had been one of the previous owners. That was one of the spookiest things that ever happened to me. I still get goose bumps thinking about the coincidence of it. He had grown up in Middleway, I was from Pennsylvania, and over 100 years had passed until I was walking in his house in VA.
Cathy Mullineaux
October 3, 2016
Hi Robert,
I am planning a visit to Middleway in a couple of weeks and cannot contain myself because I am so excited to see this wonderful little place again! My GGGGrandparents are on census records from 1810-1850 in Middlewayl I looked at the 1830 Census and was able to convert it to a modern day map. It says they lived in a house on Leetown Rd just past South St and way before Grace St. I also have no idea where they went after the 1850 Census which says they were 72 and 73 years old. I’m thinking they moved in with one of their children somewhere else. God knows they had scads of children! Sad that I cannot find their resting place, but am so determined to locate their property through land records..
And then I have relatives buried in the Masonic cemetery, several in fact,and I can’t locate where in the world they lived! May be time to check out Berkeley County records…
Thanks for all.
Cathy Mullineaux